Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five. Click here.
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Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five
Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five — it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …
The story in a second:
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five really could be a case study as to what a truly excellent vintage reissue should look like – all the elements are there, including classic good looks, fidelity to an historic model, contemporary convenience and credit card-friendly price.
It’s an example of how the Swiss watch industry can, on occasion, be bailed up by David, the little guy. An obscure mid-’60s diver was not meant to be any kind of talking point at the 98-year-old Baselworld fair. But it was. And the small-sized 40mm watch had a big impact. It was one of the surprise hits, and one of the best vintage reissues of the fair.
But if you think about it, we shouldn’t have been too surprised that this watch came from Oris. The independent brand certainly has the capacity to produce quality watches, and this one certainly meets the brand’s “real watches for real people” strapline. Plus, with a history dating back to 1904, they certainly have the archive to rifle through for inspiration.
The original 1965 model on the left and the 2015 version on the right.
What’s clear when you look at the Sixty-Five is that this is a straight reissue, rather than a heritage-inspired mash-up of several designs. What comes into even crisper focus when you look at it beside the 1965 watch that it takes its name from is just how faithful a reissue it is. The only thing changed about the case is the slight (and reasonable) size increase to 40mm. The bezel has a few minor differences – they’ve added a triangle to the luminous pip at 12 for example. But it’s nice that they kept the aluminium insert and black finish of the original. The strap is a ‘tropic’ style rubber number with a regular tang buckle, which is very comfortable to wear.
Most remarkable is the dial, which is actually an improvement on the original, with a more discreet date with a black date wheel, which doesn’t eat into the ‘three’ numeral. And something needs to be said about these numerals: it’s a brave choice by Oris to faithfully recreate such a distinctly ’60s typeface – and it is undoubtedly the right move; it gives what is otherwise a fairly straightforward piece some unique personality.
The watch is powered by the SW200 – a Sellita version of the dependable ETA 2824, an unremarkable yet sensible choice. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres, which was the norm in the ’60s dive watch, and makes it more suitable for desk-diving these days.
All this adds up to a watch that is a remarkably faithful reproduction – with a few tweaks (notably the size) that bring the watch in line with modern tastes. The other great thing about the Sixty-Five is the price. It has an Australian retail of $2300, which represents excellent value and makes it very competitively priced against watches from the likes of Tudor and Longines.
This price-point also explains why there are a few things missing – no bracelet, limited water resistance for a diver and no ceramic bezel for example. In adding these details, Oris would either have compromised the aesthetics or the price, thereby upsetting the delicate balance that makes the Sixty-Five such a great watch.Oris Divers Sixty-Five Australian pricing
The Sixty-Five will retail for $2300
The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5
Editor’s note: I’ve got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link — and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It’s such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else ’90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of the latest Link in Cam’s review …
For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by the other big players in the TAG Heuer catalogue. At least that was until last year when it was relaunched in the women’s collection, and this year it’s the men’s turn.
Now measuring 41mm, the case of the updated Link treads the curved line between a round and cushion shape. With satin brushing and polished edges creating contrast and emphasising its silhouette, particularly on the two-piece bezel. The smooth lines mean that this Link is elegant and dressy, but with subtle crown protectors and 100m of water resistance, it harkens back to the sportiness of the 1987 original.
While the case is all new, the Link is all about the bracelet, it’s where it gets its name from after all. Twin S-shaped links follow suit and are also vertically brushed with polished rounded edges, and have a way of catching reflections to create a lively mix of light and shadow. And just like its predecessor, it’s fully integrated into the case. Seamlessly tapering away and gently moulding to sit flat against the wrist. A quality that is carried through from the slim profile of the case.
There are three dial options: silver, black, and blue sunray. The blue will probably prove to be the most popular, but the other two options still hold their own. A printed logo and text, the uncluttered layout echoes the sporting elegance theme with a date at 3 o’clock and a set of baton-style hour markers and hands, which are rhodium-plated and lume-filled for maximum visibility. Just like it says on the dial, underneath beats a Calibre 5 movement, which is also seen through the sapphire display caseback, and has a power reserve of 38 hours.
Sleek, refined and dressy, the new TAG Heuer Link should prove to be as successful as its sportier ’90s precursor.
TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 Australian pricing
TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5, $3700
RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won't be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph
Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been quiet on the chronograph front, which is, at first glance, odd.
The mighty Seiko 6139. Image:
Chris Hall, over at QP Magazine, clearly thought so, and put together this story on the matter. He goes into history, corporate politics, R&D and even — occasionally — watches.
The real reason why there won’t be a watch to honour the breakthrough of 1969 is that for Seiko, the real breakthrough of 1969 wasn’t the 6139 Speed Timer.
I won’t spoil the story here, but if you’re holding out for a celebratory Pogue (who isn’t?), click through to find out why you might be holding on for a good while longer …
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